Can I Repair Marks on the Putting Green?

Yes. You can--and you should--repair marks on the putting green. Fixing pitch marks (often called ball marks) is basic putting green etiquette, and it's one of the few things you can do in 15 seconds that genuinely improves the course for everyone behind you.

The only catch is technique. Repair pitch marks the wrong way and you tear roots, leave a raised scar, and slow recovery. Do it right and most marks heal quickly, often in a few days in good growing conditions. Below is the method greenkeepers want you to use, plus the practical green repair rules that keep you from accidentally making the damage worse.

Yes--repairing pitch marks is allowed, expected, and part of the Rules

If your ball lands on a green and leaves a pitch mark (also called a ball mark), you're expected to fix it. It's not 'optional good manners'--it's normal play. Under the Rules of Golf, you're allowed to repair damage on the putting green, and pitch marks are the classic example. The R&A's Rules guidance is clear that repairing ball marks is permitted, and it's one of the reasons the modern Rules give golfers more freedom to care for the surface.

Where golfers get tangled up is thinking they might be 'improving their line'. You're not. You're restoring the green to the condition it was meant to be in. If you're repairing a genuine pitch mark, you're doing the right thing, and nobody in your group should give you grief for it.

The bigger issue is time and standards. Fixing ball marks quickly keeps pace of play moving, and fixing them properly keeps the green smooth. A well-repaired mark can knit back together in a couple of days in decent growing weather. A badly repaired mark can leave a bump that affects putts for weeks, especially on closely-mown greens where any raised edge gets exposed by the mower.

The correct technique: work from the edges towards the centre (don't lift)

The best way to think about a pitch mark is that the turf has been pushed down and sideways. Your job is to slide it back into place, not to pry it up like you're pulling a plug out of the ground. The 'pop it up' method is what causes the long-lasting scars--because it tears roots and leaves a raised ring that dries out and gets scalped by mowers.

Use a proper repair tool or a tee. Insert it just outside the edge of the depression at roughly a 45-degree angle. Then gently push the turf towards the centre of the mark. Move around the circumference, making small nudges from multiple sides until the crater closes. You're trying to bring the grass back together like closing a zip, not excavating soil.

Once the turf is back in place, lightly tap the area flat with the sole of your putter. This levels the surface so the next group doesn't get a wobble on a three-footer. The tap-down matters--many golfers do the edge work and then leave a slightly raised or slightly sunken spot because they never finish it.

If you do it right, you'll barely be able to find your repair when you step back. If you can clearly see a 'volcano ring', you've likely lifted instead of pushed, and the greenkeeper is going to see it too.

Tools that work (and what to avoid if you care about the green)

A dedicated ball mark repair tool is the cleanest option because it's designed to slide into turf without slicing it. A golf tee also works well and is a perfectly acceptable back-up--especially if you've forgotten your tool or you're trying to keep your pockets light.

What you don't want to use is anything that cuts or stabs: a knife, a pencil, the tip of a key, or a spike. Sharp improvised tools tend to puncture and shred the grass plant and roots instead of nudging the turf back into place. That's where you get the ugly 'dead ring' that shows up a week later.

From an etiquette standpoint, carrying a repair tool is as standard as carrying a marker. Most golf clubs sell them in the pro shop, and plenty of golfers keep one clipped to a glove or tucked in a pocket. If you're building a simple, sensible kit, a repair tool and a small coin-style marker are the two items that save the most awkward moments on the green (which is a huge win especially if your game is newer and you haven't yet developed consistency with all of your clubs).

If you want a practical example: Lynx includes the small essentials golfers actually use in its golf accessories range, and you'll often see Lynx-branded repair tools bundled with other everyday items. It's not glamorous gear, but it's the stuff that keeps you from borrowing off your playing partner every round.

Putting green etiquette: which marks to fix, when to fix them, and how many

Fix your own pitch mark every time--whether your ball finished on the green or ran off the back. The mark is created on impact, not where the ball ends up. If you're unsure which one is yours in a busy landing area, repair the freshest-looking one (bright edges, clean depression) and you'll usually be right.

A good habit is to repair one extra mark whilst you're waiting for others to putt. It takes seconds and it's the easiest way to leave a course in better condition than you found it. Just keep it sensible: don't wander all over the green hunting for damage whilst your group is ready to play.

Timing matters too. If you're first to play and you're standing near your line, repair your mark before you putt so you're not stepping around it. If repairing would put you in someone else's line or distract them whilst they're putting, wait until the ball is holed and the green is clear.

In soft or wet conditions, pitch marks are deeper and the turf can tear more easily. The fix is the same technique, just lighter pressure and more patience around the edges. In very firm summer conditions, marks can look shallow but still dent the surface--tap-down becomes even more important to remove the tiny depression that can knock a putt off line.

Green repair rules golfers get wrong: what you can't 'fix' and what counts as damage

The phrase 'repair marks' gets overused, and that's where confusion starts. You're allowed to repair pitch marks and other damage on the putting green, but you're not allowed to start gardening the surface to suit your putt. The line is simple: restore damage, don't create a new condition.

Pitch marks are always fair game. So are old hole plugs, animal damage, and many forms of accidental harm that clearly aren't part of the intended challenge of putting. What you shouldn't do is press down footprints in a way that changes the surface beyond simple restoration, scrape a spike mark into a trough, or 'improve' a worn path around the hole because it might help your break. If in doubt, keep it conservative: repair obvious damage, then putt.

Also, don't confuse a pitch mark with a normal ball scuff or discolouration. A discoloured spot that's flat isn't affecting roll the same way a depression is. Your priority is anything that changes the surface level--depressions, raised lips, and torn turf. Fixing ball marks is about smoothness, not cosmetics.

One more practical point: if you're using your putter to tap down, tap--don't tamp. Repeated heavy presses can compact the soil and leave a shiny, bruised patch. Greens are living surfaces, not carpets.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is repairing pitch marks on the green actually required?

It's part of expected golf etiquette, and most golf clubs will treat it as a basic responsibility of every player. The Rules allow you to repair pitch marks on the putting green, and greenkeepers rely on golfers to do it because staff can't walk every green after every group. If you regularly fix your own mark and one extra, you'll notice greens stay smoother late in the day, especially on busy member courses.

What's the difference between a pitch mark and a spike mark?

A pitch mark (ball mark) is the depression made when a ball lands on the green from the air. It usually has a crater and a pushed-down lip. A spike mark is a small puncture or tear caused by footwear. Both can affect roll, but pitch marks do more damage to turf if repaired incorrectly. Treat pitch marks with the edge-inward technique. For spike marks, avoid digging; lightly press the area only if you're restoring obvious damage.

Can I fix a pitch mark with a tee if I don't have a repair tool?

Yes. A tee is a perfectly workable substitute, and most golfers have one in their pocket already. Use it like a repair tool: insert it just outside the mark at an angle and gently push the turf towards the centre from several directions. Don't stab straight down and don't try to lever the middle upward. Finish by tapping the area smooth with your putter sole so the surface is level for the next putt.

Why is 'lifting' the mark the wrong way to do it?

Lifting the centre of the crater pulls on the grass roots and can tear them. The surface might look flat for a moment, but you often leave a raised rim and damaged roots underneath. That scar can dry out, get clipped by the mower, and stay visible for weeks. Pushing from the edges works with how the turf was displaced in the first place. You're sliding grass back into position instead of ripping it loose.

Should I repair the mark before or after I putt?

Repair it when you can do it without stepping on someone's line or distracting them. If you're first to play and the mark is near your line, fix it before you putt so you're not walking around it. If someone else is already lining up or you'd have to stand close to their putt, wait until everyone has holed out. The key is to do it promptly--don't walk off the green and forget.

How many ball marks should I fix each hole?

Always fix your own. If you've got the time whilst others are putting, fixing one extra mark is a solid habit that improves greens quickly without slowing play. On busy days, a 'two marks each' approach in a fourball can transform the putting surfaces by the back nine. Keep it efficient: repair marks you're already near, do them properly, and don't wander around hunting for damage whilst your group is ready to move on.

Repairing pitch marks properly is one of the simplest skills in golf, and it's a direct sign you respect the course and the players behind you. Carry a tool, use the edge-to-centre technique, and finish with a light tap-down. Your putts will roll truer, and so will everyone else's.

For more gear guides and golf tips, visit the Lynx Golf blog.